Our travel guides are frequently updated. This guide was last
updated 8/06. Still, there are places that are bound to have
closed or changed since our last update. Use the listed phone
numbers to call ahead, and please let us know of any corrections
or new places of interest you discover.
The Spanish "discovered" Puerto Vallarta, the largest town on
Mexico's largest bay (Banderas), in 1541, but the international
tourist community didn't discover this gorgeous spot until 1963,
when Elizabeth Taylor carried on a scandalous affair with
Richard Burton during the filming of John Huston's "Night of the
Iguana," which was shot south of town in Mismaloya. This
2.8-mile stretch of near-white sand beaches and deep-blue water
became famous as the backdrop to the film (though in black and
white) and the Burton-Taylor romance.
Although parts of the area have been greatly developed, native
charm is still strong on the cobblestone streets of Old Town,
and in the nearby village of Boca de Tomatlán. Old Town is where
you'll find most of the gay and gay-friendly establishments --
you'll also hear the area referred to as South Side, Playa del
Sol/Los Muertos Beach and Olas Altas. Vallarta offers a unique
mix of local color, world-class dining, modern beach resorts and
easy access to "old Mexico" nearby. And while Vallarta's gay
scene is tamer than what you'd find in Acapulco, it is more
abundant than that of Cancún, Cabo and Mazatlan put together.
Whether you take just a day to stroll the streets of Old Town or
spend a week enjoying its many attractions, you'll fall in love
with this magical place.
STAY
Doin' It Right Travel (see resources in Mexico introduction) is
a past Editor's Choice Award winner, and our first
recommendation for Vallarta bookings, particularly for gay-owned
and gay-friendly villas, condos, hotels and B&Bs. Arco Iris Gay
Mexico Travel Experts (see resources) is a gay specialist for
all of Mexico and also recommended for bookings. Discovery
Vallarta (see resources) is a Vallarta-based reservations
option.
Descanso del Sol (Pino Saurez 583; +52-322/222-5229; $85-155) is
a popular, gay-exclusive 22-room hotel, with everything from
very basic small standard rooms with no view to a one-bedroom
master suite, a rooftop pool and bar and 24-hour front desk. All
rooms have TV and phone; some have bay views and limited kitchen
facilities. There is no elevator, so be prepared for stairs and
a steep walk from the beach. Right on the gay beach (with its
distinctive blue chairs), Blue Chairs Beach Resort (Malecon y
Almendro 4, Playa Los Muertos; +52-322/222-5040, fax
+52-322/222-2176; www.bluechairs.com, bluechairsmex@aol.com;
$59-229) is a gay-owned and -operated hotel/resort. As a
luxurious, colorful adults-only lodging option, it includes
in-house massage service, a restaurant, a bar and concierge
service. Discounts available through Doin' It Right and Arco
Iris, as well as for travel agents and airline personnel.
The San Franciscan Resort & Gym (Pilitas 213; +52-322/222-6473;
www.san-franciscan.com; $130-360) offers one-, two-& and
three-bedroom condos with fully equipped kitchens, large
swimming pool and a fully equipped free-weight gym, close to the
"chairs" beach. Boana Torre Malibu (Amapas 325; +52-322/222-6695
or 800/936-3646; www.boana.net, boana@pvnet.com.mx; $40-150) is
a service-oriented, nine-floor basic modern condo/hotel/B&B just
one block directly behind the gay beach, with a nice large pool
and bay-view balconies from all 30 units. All rooms have
air-conditioning and cable TV; top-end rooms have stereo, VCR
and microwave. Casa Cupula (129 Callejon de la Igualdad;
+52-322/223-2484, fax +52-775/263-9261; www.casacupula.com,
info@casacupula.com; $145-395), with five years under its
jeweled belt, is a luxurious gay guesthouse combining the
intimacy of a B&B with the service level of a high-end resort.
Within walking distance of the Blue Chairs gay beach, Casa
Cupula has opened three new condos for fractional ownership this
season; concierge service will assist you should you bother to
pry yourself away from your cocktail on the poolside terrace or
your specially designed Dream Bed.
Vallarta Cora (Pilitas 174; +52-322/223-2815;
www.vallartacora.com, vallartacora@hotmail.com; $75-95) is a gay
male-exclusive hotel/apartment in Vallarta, half a block behind
the Tropicana Hotel and beach. Its 15 rooms on four floors (no
elevator) are all one-bedroom, 1.5 bath suites with equipped
kitchens, but no ocean views. It is rustic, with a
clothing-optional pool from dusk until dawn and a wet-steam room
behind the bar. Vallarta Cora has earned its party reputation,
hosting such events as Halloween Toga Night. Casa Palapa (Paseo
de Las Conchas Chinas 107; +52-322/221-5561; www.casapalapa.com;
$195-290) is a gorgeous B&B with plush, king-sized canopy beds
in a romantic, modern Mexican-Moorish design. A rooftop terrace
with Jacuzzi and lounge opens to the expansive view of Banderas
Bay for your sunset cocktails. Ask for special rates for rental
of the entire five-suite villa including maid and butler
service.
Casa Fantasia (Pino Suarez 203 @ Francisco Madero;
+52-322/223-2444, 52-322/223-4035;
www.mexonline.com/casafantasia.htm; $70-150) is an upscale gay
B&B, elegantly furnished with antiques and original artwork. The
Mexican hacienda-style compound offers a medium pool (clothing
required), five suites and two smaller rooms with shared baths.
A full gourmet breakfast is served; the place is well maintained
and centrally located just one block to Los Muertos Beach.
Guests are not allowed, and there is no air-conditioning. Nearby
Gringo Gulch is another colorful neighborhood, home to Villa
David (Galeana 348; (+52-322/223-0315 or 877/832-3315 toll-free;
www.villadavidpv.com, bill@villadavidpv.com; $79-129) with its
hillside villa built around a central courtyard. Men-only and
clothing-optional, the hacienda provides a private courtyard
with large swimming pool in a lush garden. Retire to the rooftop
terrace for a Jacuzzi or sunset cocktails while terraces provide
panoramic bay, city and mountain views.
Quinta Maria Cortez (Calle Sagitario 132, on Playa Conchas
Chinas; 888/640-8100, fax 801/531-1633; www.quinta-maria.com,
qmc@travel-zone.com; $95-305) is an upscale-eclectic (though not
luxurious) mixed-clientele "Mexaterranean" B&B villa right next
to the beach, a few miles south of downtown in the Conchas
Chinas area. The property rises seven levels above the beach.
We'd recommend a taxi there, especially during the heat of the
day or at night. Service is excellent. Best for couples rather
than singles. Quinta Maria is a recipient of our Editor's Choice
award for "elegance and style." With three- and four-bedroom
apartments available Casa Tres Vidas Villas (888/640-8100;
www.casatresvidas.com, qmc@travel-zone.com; $500-850), owned by
the same owners and next door to Quinta Maria, is good for
groups or families traveling together. During summer only they
offer one-bedroom rates, inquire if this applies. This distinct
relaxed property is located on the water with a great view of
Banderas Bay and the city at night.
Los Cuatro Vientos (Matamoros 520; +52-322/222-0161, fax +5
2-322/222-2831; www.cuatrovientos.com; $45-69) is an older, cozy
inn with cheerful rooms decorated with Mexican furnishings and
crafts. The rooftop sun deck has a panoramic view of the city
while the hotel also houses the popular Chez Elena restaurant.
Located five steep blocks from the central plaza, they run
several weeklong women's getaways each year. A number of B&B
options, inns and casitas exist, a popular one being La Terraza
Inn (Amapas 299; + 52-322/223-5431; www.terrazainn.com,
info@terrazainn.com; $45-90), built on the hillside above Hotel
Tropicana. Ocean view only from top suite area, but all rooms
have A/C, cable TV, in-room safes and kitchenettes. It's very
spacious, surrounded by gardens, and they allow pets. Enjoy
staying in a neighborhood not on the beach for a different
flavor.
The Hacienda Mosiaco (Milan 274, Versalles; + 5 2-322/225-8296
or toll-free 866/263-9717; www.haciendamosaico.com; $85-150) is
in an enclosed courtyard with a great pool area in a comfortable
Mexican neighborhood, and best of all, the site of art classes
and workshops. Contact them for enrollment and find a new reason
to stay longer. Another favorite for groups of friends is Casa
del Quetzal (Los Corrales 117, Conchas Chinas; +52-322/221-5265,
res. +52-322/223-2745; www.casadelquetzal.com,
info@casadelquetzal.com; $1,075-1,251) with five bedrooms on
three floors, just an amazingly intimate Mexican-style hacienda
with personal staff. The outdoor enclosed patio area, Infinity
pool and view of Banderas Bay keeps regulars coming back year
after year. This villa has arguably one of the best views from
upper Conchas Chinas. The same company represents the stunning
Villa Tortuga (www.timothyfuller.com, +52/322-222-1535;
$800-1000), a five-bedroom five-bath villa with open living
spaces created for entertaining. Located just two blocks up from
the beach, easy access is guaranteed while still providing an
amazing 180-degree view of the bay and full services of the
attentive staff. Rate quoted is for entire villa with staff
included.
Located five minutes from the airport and ten from downtown PV
in Marina Vallarta, the Westin Resort & Spa Puerto Vallarta (Paseo
de la Marina Sur #205; +52-322/226-1100;
www.starwoodhotels.com/westin/property; $169-424) offers
visitors the high-end amenities and world-class service typical
of Westin resorts in a charming modern setting. The resort's 280
units (including 14 suites) boast ocean front balconies, some of
which feature terrace Jacuzzis. A golf course, fitness center,
four outdoor swimming pools and spa round out the hotel
amenities. Our favorite splurge property is the 166-unit Four
Seasons Resort Punta Mita (800/332-3442 o r +52-322/291-6019;
www.fourseasons.com/puntamita; casitas: $325-1090; suites:
$1,200-5,000), set amid 1,000 acres of pristine coastal terrain
about 45 minutes north of Vallarta. You may never leave the
opulent splendor of your casita or suite, but you must
experience the gorgeous natural beauty surrounding the resort,
the world-class luxury spa or the 19-hole Jack Nicklaus designed
golf course.
Casa Las Brisas Resort (just before the turn-off for Four
Seasons Resort, Punta de Mita; +52-322/306-2112;
www.casalasbrisas.com, casaslasbrisas@aol.com; $355-595) is a
luxurious Mexico Boutique hideaway on Playa Careyero, 45 minutes
north of Vallarta, with fountains and an idyllic beach, close to
golf, tennis and surfing. There is a shuttle available to Puerto
Vallarta and airplane charters can be organized for safari
trips. Plan your trip to coincide with turtle-hatching
(July-Dec.), whale-watching (Dec.-March) or merely lounge on the
idyllic beach or frolic in their fountains.
Check Paco Paco's Web site www.gayguidevallarta.com for an
extensive listing of casitas and other information.
EAT
Some of these restaurants are gay-owned, but not everyone is
"out." Puerto Vallarta is second only to Mexico City in the
number of upscale dining establishments. Multiple award-winning,
world-class Caf? des Artistes (Guadalupe Sanchez 740;
+52-322/222-3228; www.cafedesartistes.com,
artistes@pvnet.com.mx; $18-69), one of the most famous
restaurants in town, is now home to three establishments: Caf?
des Artistes Bistro, Costantini Wine Bar and Thierry Blouet
Cocina de Autor. The menu offers an incredible selection of
cutting-edge cuisine such as you might expect in any
international capital. The classy decor, expanded candlelit
garden area, live music and impeccable service make this an
unforgettable experience.
Nearby is El Array?n (Allende 344, Centro; +52-322/222-7195;
www.elarrayan.com.mx; $12-49), a popular place both for food and
ambience. It's like being at a country place with a central
courtyard, very traditional Mexican with menu delights from
around the country. Live music on Saturday. Le Bistro Jazz Caf?
(Isla Rio Cuale 16-A; +52-322/222-0283; www.lebistro.com.mx;
$12-39) is a great location with international cuisine and
romantic Art Deco dining on an island in the middle of the Cuale
River at the upper bridge on Insurgentes. Breakfast accompanied
by live piano. The River Caf? (Isla Rio Cuale 4, below lower
bridge on I.L. Vallarta; +52-322/223-0788; www.rivercafe.com.mx,
rivercafe@rivercafe.com.mx; $12-39) has established its
reputation as one of the most romantic spots on the Cuale River,
not only for great live music but for award-winning cuisine.
Chez Elena (Matamoras 520; +52-322/222-0161;
www.cuatrovientos.com; $8-29) is worth the trip for its alfresco
dining experience, a menu which includes good seafood and
vegetarian dishes and the infamous Green Flash cocktail
concoction. Downtown is graced by the classy Los Xitomates
(Morelos 570; +52-322/222-1694; www.losxitomates.com,
losxitomates@prodigy.net.mx; $13-39), high Mexican cuisine
combined in a nouvelle way with an Asian-Mediterranean touch
that is not only attractive to the eye but totally wins the
palate. Above downtown is Barcelona Tapas (Matamoros & 31 de
Octubre; +52-322/222-0510; tapas@pvnet.com.mx; $8-29), a climb
up four flights of stairs, but with a view to die for and tapas
and paella to make you glad to be alive. Another trafficked
corner is Apaches Bistro (Olas Altas 443; 222-4004;
astapelbroek@hotmail.com; $8-19), right next to Apaches, with a
special menu by Chef Andr? of Holland. Try the Stroganoff,
chicken Vallarta, or the variety of snacks.
La Palapa (Amapas at Pulpito; +52-322/222-5225;
www.lapalapapv.com; $19-68) serves up some of the best seafood
in town with daily drink special and live Latin jazz on Los
Muertos beach. Dress up while keeping your toes in the sand in
beachside dining. Just a few blocks away is the ever-popular
Daiquiri Dick's (Olas Altas 314; +52-322/222-0566; www.ddpv.com,
daiquirid@pvnet.com.mx; $15-29) with its unmatched view of the
sunset, great service and a gourmet menu with incredible taste
treats as well as live music for Sunday brunch. Woman-owned
Planeta Vegetariano (Iturbide 270; +52-322/222-3075; $5.50) does
a filling all-you-can-eat lunch buffet. Red Cabbage Caf? (Rivera
del Rio 204A; +52-322/223-0411; www.redcabbagecafe.com;
redcabbage@pvnet.com.mx; $9-25) is also woman-owned and
operated, and has 35 seats and a funky cabbage and Frida Kahlo
theme throughout, receiving raves in Gourmet magazine.
Trio Caf? (Guerrero 264; +52-322/222-2196 www.triopv.com;
$19-45) has both award-winning food and chic decor. Lunch and
dinner can be enjoyed on an open patio or on the rooftop terrace
during the season. The same owners now operate Vitea (Libertad,
Edificio Malecon 2; +52/322-222-8703; $8-34), located on the new
stretch of Malecon near the pedestrian bridge that crosses the
Cuale River. Food is a Mediterranean fusion with items offered
in two portion sizes.
Asaderos (Basilio Badillo 223; $9) is a great budget option,
considering they offer all-you-can-eat steak, chicken, BBQ ribs,
chorizo, chips & cactus salsa, handmade tortillas, beans,
quesadillas, and tacos with fried beans. Miguelitos (Basilio
Badillo 287; +52-322/223-1263, $9-19) serves creative Mexican
dishes in an upscale, friendly environment. The creek and giant
tree at the entrance make this place hard to miss. Try the
lovely Mexican-Asian cuisine at Boca Bento (Basilio Badillo 180;
+52-322/222-9108; www.bocabento.com) and don't miss their yummy
key lime margaritas. Catch a late breakfast at Memo's Pancake
House (Basilio Badillo 289; +52-322/222-6272; 8 a.m.-2 p.m.;
$5-19). Be prepared to stand in a long line, as the over 70-item
breakfast menu, heavy with pancakes, French toast and waffles,
keeps everyone coming back.
Stop for everything you need for your gourmet lunch or dinner at
Agrogourmet (Basilio Badillo 222; +52-322/222-5357;
www.agro-gourmet.com). While there, check out the special
homemade dressings to serve with that special salad. Worth a
special mention for gourmands is the annual Gourmet Festival
(see below), an international event with over 30 of the local
restaurants participating in what has become one of the major
events of the year.
PLAY/MEET
Vallarta's nightlife is clustered together, making it easy to
sample several clubs in one evening. Many clubs have stripper
shows and drag shows on the weekend, but they are tamer than
those in Acapulco. (The gay scene here is less overtly sexual in
general, and many clubs have "straight" employees, so be careful
whom you proposition.)
Club Paco Paco (Ignacio L. Vallarta 278; +52-322/222-1899;
www.pacopaco.com, info@pacopaco.com) is the biggest club in
town, and always very popular with tourists. It also attracts
more women than the other clubs. The second floor of Paco Paco
is a cantina with a pool table, juke box and video games. The
third floor extends out to a rooftop patio, occasionally
featuring live entertainment. The main room downstairs is a
'70s-style disco for dancing and drag shows, and behind the main
disco is The Ranch, a country & western-themed area that
features hot male strippers twice a night. Currently there is an
open-door policy for Club Paco Paco and The Ranch, even though
both have separate management. Another Paco's connection is Bar
Los Amigos (Venustiano Carranza 237; +52-322/222-7802;
www.losamigosbar.com, barlosamigos@yahoo.com), a lively Vallarta
favorite, boasting theme parties and a keen clientele. The bar
attracts a good mix of locals and tourists and offers a
restaurant and entertainment bingo with jackpot prizes.
The Plasma Labyrinth (Pino Suarez 235), open from 3 p.m. to 2
a.m. daily during the season, is called the new concept in
Vallarta but sounds like the return of another era. Pool tables,
air conditioning, video room and jukebox are the prelude to the
back room. If Mexico is land of tomorrow, check out the new
Ma?ana (Venustiano Carranza 290; +52-322/222-7772;
www.manana.com.mx, cover) for dance shows, strippers,
international guest performers, a swimming pool, disco with air
conditioning, cabanas, cantina and more, all created within a
villa in the Romantic Zone. See Web page for drink specials as
well as theme party nights.
Los Balcones (Avenida Juarez 182 at Libertad, above CMQ
pharmacy; +52-322/222-4671) attracts more of a mixed
tourist/local crowd, with the locals out after midnight and
circuit boys packing the house on Fridays, Saturdays. Their
dance floor features a current music selection. Drink specials
draw patrons Tuesday to Thursday. Antropology (Morelos 101 Plaza
Rio, just north of the lower bridge; +52-322-222-6392) has a
downstairs disco playing more "alternative music" to a mixed
gay/straight crowd, a games room with pool and backgammon and a
new candelit rooftop bar and snack bar. Hot stripper shows have
also been added to the menu. A cover charge applies downstairs
on weekends and special event nights only.
Watch the sunset from Blue Sunset Rooftop (Rooftop of Blue
Chairs Resort at Almendro 4, Los Muertos Beach;
+52-322/222-5040; www.bluechairs.com) or have dinner at their
Blue Moon with a view. Dewayne's Oasis Bar & Grill (Pilitas 156
at Amapas; +52-322/223-5273; www.dewaynesoasis.com) is a
friendly place for checking out the scene with dancers, karaoke,
show tunes and an amateur strip night. Apaches (Olas Altas 439;
+52-322/222-5235; apaches2000@yahoo.com) is the best-known
lesbian-owned bar in town. Renowned host Marianne from Vancouver
presides over a nice, small venue with fabulous martinis, tasty
tapas and art shows. Every few weeks new artwork of local
artists is displayed. Happy hour is 5-7 p.m.
The Palm (Olas Altas 508; +52-322/223-4818; $3.50), with its
spacious interior, was the scene of a British reality TV show in
2004. Cocktails come as fast and furious as quips from the
fabulous Kinsey Sicks. Carrie Chestnut wows the boys (and girls)
with her sexy clarinet. (This venue has been sold, but will most
likely operate as above.) A local favorite pre-dinner or after
show is classy Garbo (Pulpito 142; +52-322/229-7309;
garbom@terra.com), a romantic piano bar boasting live music and
jazz a couple nights a week. Friends gather here to gossip with
a martini in well-manicured hand, or to make the move on that
new guy in town. Another elegant new bar is La Noche (Lazaro
Cardenas 257; +52-322/222-3364). Specializing in tequila
cocktails, the soft music encourages conversation in dramatic
lighting that does the same. Daily happy hour. Diva?s (Fco.
Madero 388; +52/322-222-7774) is also a comfortable neighborhood
gay bar located just across from the back door of the Cine Bahia
in the Romantic Zone, off the beaten track and a great place for
a quiet afternoon cocktail.
Coffee, anyone? Stop in at friendly Dee's Coffee (Rodolfo Gomez
120, E. Zapata; +52-322/222-1197) for the best pastries. Couches
in the back allow conversation while tables streetside open your
horizons. Olas Altas, lined with coffee shops and restaurants,
offers other possibilities, another friendly one being The
Coffee Cup (Rodolfo Gomez 146, just off Olas Altas;
+52-322/222-8584) where they also offer breakfast wraps and
bagels.
Be safe: The Condom House (Malecon 184, next to Blue Chairs)
sells condoms as well as lubricants and massage oils.
SEE/DO
The established gay beach is known as "Blue Chairs" because of,
well... the blue chairs on the beach. Locals and tourists come
together on this section of Playa los Muertos in front of the
gay-owned Blue Chairs Hotel. The adjacent "Green Chairs" beach
is increasingly gay popular too. (The rocky area south of the
gay beach is cruisy but police patrolled and AYOR.)
Most tours can be arranged in advance through Doin It Right (see
resources) or booked direct. Boana Tours
(www.boana.net/tours.htm, boana@pvnet.com.mx; +52-322/222-0999
or office +52-322/222-6695) and Amadeus Tours (Mario;
+52-322/223-2815) offer a number of all-gay tours. Check with
the concierge at Blue Chairs Resort (see above) for their
scheduled outings. Typical offerings include horseback riding
and Gay Bay Cruises. PV Journey (+52-322/223-0277) also offers a
horseback riding trip, as does Diana's Tours
(www.bluechairs.com/cruisepay.htm). Diana also runs mixed gay
and lesbian cruises ($75 per person) and women's beach and town
tours.
Mountain Bike Tours (Badillo 381; +52-322/222-0080) is a
mainstream operator offering trips to outlying areas. For $5,
you can tour the Taylor-Burton villas, Casa Kimberly (445 Calle
Zaragoza; +52-322/222-1336). Enjoy whale watching with an expert
oceanologist and whale photographer (who happens to be gay)
providing small group excursions of under 10 people. Contact
Oscar Frey (phone/fax +52-322/225-3774; www.oceanfriendly.com;
from $80) for more information. Oscar also trains private
individuals and rents out his equipment -- including underwater
hydrophones -- to private groups. Ask for group rates on
charters.
New and exciting are the sails on the horizon of Pat Henry in
her venture called Coming About (Any Woman's Sailing School)
(+52-322/222-4119; www.comingabout.com, pat@comingabout.com),
offering classes and training primarily for women, even though
she also promises to attend to the occasional men's group. Ms.
Henry is the author of "By the Grace of the Sea" in which she
tells about her adventures traveling around the world solo on
her sailboat Southern Cross, now anchored in the Marina in
Puerto Vallarta. For birding adventures, contact Alex Martinez
(+52-322/222-7407; www.birdinginmexico.com), a bilingual
eco-ornithologist who offers day trips as well as overnights,
with binoculars, of course.
NEARBY SIDE TRIPS
Twenty minutes south you'll find Mismaloya, where The Night of
the Iguana was filmed, offering sea kayaking, jet-ski rental,
parasailing, and panga launches. Five minutes further is Boca de
Tomatlan , a quaint fishing village with a less developed,
genuine Mexico feel. Cafe Primitivo (open 10 am-10 pm) is a
recommended restaurant here, and a great place to watch the
sunset.
From Boca you can take a twenty-minute ($7.50) water taxi or
panga (small boat) to Yelapa, a small primitive village with
beautiful waterfalls that is accessible by foot or on horseback.
Recent connection to electricity even offers Internet and
telephone access in this outback town. Friendly host Luc
presides over the restaurant and beach bar (with dance floor) at
the Hotel Lagunita (+52-322/209-5056 or +52-322/209-5055;
www.hotel-lagunita.com, info@hotel-lagunita.com; $60-125). Spend
the night in one of their 32 bamboo palapa huts. The lovely
Verana (www.mexicoboutiquehotels.com/verana, $275-500) is a
private, seven-casita boutique hotel with spa and Watsu pool for
private treatments. Located on a hill overlooking the bay,
Verana protects you in another world removed from any you've
ever known. Primitive with class. From Vallarta, a bus marked "Mismaloya
& Boca Tomatlan" will take you to either town for $0.60; a panga
from there to Yelapa, a 25-minute ride, is about $7.50 each way.
A more convenient water taxi directly to Yelapa from the Los
Muertos Pier takes 40 minutes at $9 each way, although the water
taxi runs less frequently (i.e., to Yelapa 11 a.m. & 4 p.m.;
from Yelapa: 8:30 a.m. and 3 p.m.; check for exact schedule).
Paco's Paradise (www.pacopaco.com, 044/322-227-2189) is ten
miles south of town by boat and has delights such as a bar, 20
acres of nature trails, and best of all, privacy. The secluded
beach is only accessible by boat; from Boca de Tomatlan daily,
$15 roundtrip, on La Rosita including day pass and admission to
park. Minimum consumption $10 per person. Departs at 10a, 11a,
noon, returns at 4p, 5p, 6p. Overnight stays also available.
Sunday afternoon is their weekly beach party if you?re so
inclined. Also ask about Paco?s Landlubber Cruise. An additional
bay cruise is offered by Boana (reservations at Boana Torre
Malibu at Amapas 325, +52/322-222-0999) with day, sunset,
charter and overnights a possibility. Boana also offers
horseback riding adventures with transportation and snacks
included.
The new Botanical Gardens (Km 24 Carr. Barra de Navidad, about
30 minutes south of PV; 044-322/105-7217; bobinpvmex@yahoo.com),
located en route to El Tuito, is worth a stop, whether for
coffee, breakfast or lunch. Every Saturday at 1pm there are
meetings, classes or exhibitions, sometimes related to gardening
and plants and sometimes not. Walk down to the river below and
explore the territory. A must for orchid fanatics.
CULTURAL/ARTISTIC
Puerto Vallarta is a major world-class art destination, having
grown from simple tourist art to a locale of original art with
an international awareness. If you're fortunate, you may
experience an exhibition at the lovely expanded Galleria Dante (Basilio
Badillo 269, E. Zapata; +52-322/222-2477, fax +52-322/222-6284;
www.galleriadante.com), when the renowned Colunga brothers,
Alejandro, Gabriel and Bernardo, all sculptors, unveil new
works. Some of the best artists and collectors hang out here.
Galeria Corsica (Leona Vicario 230, Centro; +52-322/223-1821;
and Guadalupe S?nchez 735, +52-322/223-1821, across from
entrance to Caf? des Artistes; www.galeriacorsica.com) exhibits
some of the best young artists of Mexico such as Jorge Mar?n,
Luciano Spano, Rocio Caballero and Antonio Castro Lopez.
Sensuality comes to life in their sexy work, incredible in color
and human form. Ongoing is the ArtWalk, a free cocktail party
involving 18 of the downtown galleries every Wednesday from late
October through April. The best photographers gather at Galeria
Omar Alonso (Leona Vicario 249, Centro; +52-322/222-5587;
galeriaomaralonso@yahoo.com.mx) for shows of extraordinary
vision.
SHOP
Puerto Vallarta has an excellent selection of indigenous crafts
and other merchandise. The conveniently located Hikuri, (Olas
Altas 391) right across from Playa Los Arcos, sells exquisite
Huichol beaded crafts. The island of the Cuale River (Isla Rio
Cuale) is a popular place for treasured finds such as beads,
necklaces, ceramics and hammocks. The amazing pre-Hispanic
designs of Mata Ortiz pottery are available at Galeria Mata
Ortiz (Lazaro Cardenas 268-A; +52-322/222-7407;
www.mataortiz-pottery.com, clalex@pvnet.com.mx). Serafina (Basilio
Badillo 260; +52-322/223-4594) and Ponciana (B. Badillo 252-A,
next door; +52-322/222-2988) sell popular handwoven table
linens, white cotton "waiter" shirts and other fun items in
addition to Talavera pottery.
The nearby VIVA (B. Badillo 274; +52-322-222-4078, fax
+52-322/222-4850; vivacollection.com,
marysue@vivacollection.com) represents over 560 designers from
around the world in a variety of prices, for discriminating men
and women. Patti Gallardo (B. Badillo 250; +52-322-222-5712;
pattigallardo46@hotmail.com) sells her eclectic art in a shop
that defies description. Liquid Men (I.L. Vallarta 245;
+52-322/223-3165; liquidmenpv@hotmail.com) is a favorite for
Diesel clothes, shoes and rainbow accessories as well as the
designs of local Luis Alberto. For those in need of a mall fix,
check out Plaza Caracol (Zona Hotelera) where a variety of
stores and shops include fashion, beachwear, footwear and photo
supplies as well as a second-floor cinema with coffee shops,
fast food joints and more. The up-and-coming Peninsula will
offer an even more upscale environment not only for shopping but
for dining and clubbing as well. Future home of first local
Starbucks.
Stop by for flowers at Flowers To Go (Rodolfo Gomez 126;
+52-322/223-5686) with an excellent assortment of loose and
arranged flowers. Drop everything, walk across the street, and
check out the underwear and beachwear at Best (Rodolfo Gomez
111, L2; +52-322/222-5128) where hot manneguins display more
than enough for anyone. Around the corner, shop for the latest
eyewear at Sea Me (Amapas 114B at corner of Rodolfo Gomez;
+52-322/223-8043): Ray Ban, Prada, Donna Karan, Dolce & Gabbana,
Ferragamo and more.
EVENTS
When summer comes to a wane, go south young man. Fiestas Patrias
("patriotic festival") are big all over Mexico, and Arco Iris
(see resources) jumps ahead with their annual September package
for Independence Day in Puerto Vallarta. Party rainbow and party
hardy. To start the high season off with a bang, Club Atlantis
(see resources) offers a San Diego to Acapulco cruise (October
21-29, 2006) on RCCL?s Serenade of the Seas that visits Puerto
Vallarta as well as Acapulco, Ixtapa and Cabo San Lucas.
Cruising is a specialty of RSVP Vacations
(www.rsvpvacations.com) with a Mexican Riviera Cruise (October
28-November 4, 2006) on the Diamond Princess that sails from Los
Angeles and visits the ports of Mazatlan, Puerto Vallarta and
Cabo San Lucas. That?s followed by an all-inclusive Club
Atlantis Puerto Vallarta package with special early rates for
November 4-11, 2006.
The last weekend in November (November 21-27, 2006) is
traditionally Latin Fever, a long weekend of parties and music
with all venues participating. Check www.willgorges.com or call
213/407-0542 for further information. Tickets available in
Vallarta at Liquid Men (I.L. Vallarta 245). Will Gorges also
sponsors a New Year?s Package this year (December 26,
2006-January 2, 2007) with participating hotels and events. Arco
Iris Tours (see resources) continues with their annual New
Year's Bash (December 27-January 3) including a number of local
events, both water and land. Bear?s Week in Paradise (January
28-February 4, 2007) is another annual favorite that will make
you feel frisky.
Puerto Vallarta is a natural for the site of a new international
film festival. In addition to being the scene of over 80-some
films, documentaries and telenovelas (soap operas), the coastal
town reached world-wide renown during John Huston's filming of
"The Night of the Iguana," starring Ava Gardner and Richard
Burton, among others. The scandalous romance of Burton and
Elizabeth Taylor drew paparazzi to this quiet pueblo. Huston's
children teamed together in 2002 to begin plans for the Puerto
Vallarta Film Festival of the Americas, a festival of
experimental, independent filmmakers, in memory of their father,
king of mavericks. Now called Vallarta Film Festival, awards for
best actor, actress, director, cinematographer as well as the
public's choice are presented at a gala dinner following the
event. (Nov. 29-Dec. 3, 2006; www.vallartafilmfestival.com)
Another major event is the Gourmet Festival, an international
event that in its 12 years has put Puerto Vallarta on the
haute-cuisine world map. Chefs come from around the world to the
over 30 participating gourmet restaurants (Nov. 9-19, 2006;
www.festivalgourmet.com). Other citywide events this month
include a sailfish contest (www.fishvallarta.com), cultural
festival and golf tournaments (www.vallartagolf.com). In
addition, a number of cultural festivals and events take place
throughout the year. Check the local bilingual magazine Bay
Vallarta for the latest on what's going on. If the event you
want to create is your own, arrange it through partners Zac
Campbell of Eventful Moments (+52-322/293-5725;
www.em-vallarta.com). Whether it's a wedding, a commitment
ceremony or any other memorable event, they handle all the
details.
Up on the hill above the city is a hideaway called Terra Noble (Tulipanes
595; +52-322/223-3530; www.terranoble.com, info@terranoble.com)
with a Shanti Healing Center as well as art classes, retreats
and Temazcal, an incredible pre-Hispanic cleansing experience.
Vallarta's AIDS prevention and education group is called
Organizacion Vallarta Contra el SIDA (Hidalgo 533 downtown;
+52-322 222-2414; oves@prodigy.com.mx), always in need of
condoms and funds.
Gay Guide Vallarta (www.gayguidevallarta.com) extensively covers
details about gay-friendly Vallarta. Check the guide for any
number of other services, including real estate, legal aid,
laundry service, beauty salons and spas, tours, shopping,
dentistry and anything else that we might have forgotten. See
www.pvglba.org, an online resource consisting of gay and
gay-friendly businesses in the Puerto Vallarta area. Cyber cafes
are common in Vallarta and you may well find one right next to
your hotel. A decent hospital nearby is Medassist Hospital (Dieguez
236; +52-322/223-0444) with some English spoken. The CMQ
drugstore (Basilio Badillo 365; +52-322/222-4973) is open 24
hours. In case of emergency, the number to call is 060.
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